I will start off this review by saying that sustainable fishing is one of the few “causes” that I actually get behind in any meaningful way, largely because I find most of the denizens of the deep to be delicious and I’d like to continue feasting on them for the rest of my days. That said, I’ll generally support any seafood restaurant that serves only sustainably-fished critters, even if it’s not otherwise spectacular, but this time around I luckily didn’t have to choose between the two.
Hook is a new Georgetown fish stop that serves only those items that are judged to not be in immediate danger of disappearing off the face of our planet, which is encouraging. It’s bad enough for species to go extinct, it’s even worse when they go extinct because we actually ate every last one of them. Fish like bluefin tuna, Atlantic cod, and orange roughy will quite literally cease to exist in twenty or so years unless we start being more responsible about our consumption. Mark my words, if one of you eats the last orange roughy and I can never have any ever again, I will come to your house and kill you.
Chef Barton Seaver uses the Monterey Aquarium’s sustainable fishing guide as the outline for his menu, wherein he features such unconventional food fish as weakfish, bluefish, and wahoo. You might be surprised what other fish make the list, it is encouraging to note that favorites like mackerel and mahi-mahi are both fished in a manner which will preserve their populations for the foreseeable future.
I did not care for the dining room, it is loud, poorly ventilated, and bright. I felt more like a kid on spring break in a Mexican bar (from the noise, not the décor) than I did like a diner in a $60/person fish restaurant in Georgetown. Apparently there is a more sedate dining room upstairs, which I will definitely request for my second visit.
While the restaurant does serve conventional appetizers, the most appealing way to start a meal at Hook is via the “crudo”, which are offerings of raw fish lightly garnished with different flavors. The garnishes include things like lime juice, blueberry coulis, sea salt, cilantro, and other tasty bits. Think of this as Italian sashimi. It seems very reasonable at only $3 per crudo with 3 plates available for $8, however the portions are very very small, with each “plate” really only offering a single bite each for two people. Some of the crudo, like the Amberjack and Blackfin tuna, were somewhat overwhelmed by their garnishes, tasting less like fish and more like whatever was served with them. I honestly don’t even know which fish was served with the blueberry coulis, as it tasted quite a bit like pie and very little like fish. Several were fantastic however, including the mackerel, the mahi-mahi, and most notably the trout roe. I had never eaten trout roe before and you probably haven’t either, but I can assure you that it is positively bewitching. I will now go to almost any length to buy it for my home pantry, and I’ll probably put it on all sorts of inappropriate things. In this case, the roe was served simply over a couple of soft bread croutons with fresh dill, and the starchiness of the bread complimented the briny caviar beautifully. This was by far the best thing I ate all night, and it could be the best thing I’ve eaten all year.
We decided to forego any traditional appetizer after polishing off our crudo, as we had managed to scarf down 6 mini-plates of raw fish and we weren’t sure how big the entrees were going to be. I urge any future diners not to make this mistake, as the appetizer menu looks delicious and we could’ve easily at least split one and still finished dinner and dessert. There is a “country ham tasting” consisting of two types of ham and quarter-sized buttermilk biscuits that is apparently popular with the Bush Twins, and the warmed spinach salad in morel vinaigrette sounds pretty killer.
When I go out to eat with my wife, there is typically something of a competition as to who can order the better entrée. She outdoes me with ruthless efficiency almost every time, however this time both she and I agreed that I got the better meal. That said, both entrees were extremely fresh and attractively presented, and both demonstrated very intelligent flavor pairings and dish composition.
My wife had the Barracuda, which I’d never even seen on a menu before, but that apparently has the consistency of salmon with the flavor of rockfish. It was beautifully seared on one side with the skin intact on the other side, moist throughout, flaky, and delicious. It was served on a bed of barley that had been seasoned in an apparently forgettable manner, as neither she nor I thought much of it nor did we recall what the seasoning was. A strong starch such as barley is too overpowering to serve with a fish like Barracuda, and it was only this fault that gave my entrée the ultimate advantage. I would have preferred a mild cauliflower puree or perhaps some grits flavored with fish or lobster stock. Her entire entrée was garnished with a very delicious deep-fried crispy kale, which is a Southern treat that pleases me every time.
I ordered the arctic char, which is apparently very similar to salmon, although I did not know this when I ordered it, I expected to get a white fish. I was a little disappointed at this when it was put in front of me, however the disappointment only lasted so long as it took for the first forkful to reach my mouth. This was an inspired piece of fish, perfectly grilled on both the skin side (left intact, lightly salted, and delicious) and the flesh side, perfectly flaky, with no other flavorings. I can not imagine that it could have been better prepared anywhere else in the world, it was that good. The fish was served atop a very flavorful shell bean ragout, which had a rich poultry stock flavor that actually blended very well with the rich fatty arctic char.
I have been on a roll with side dishes of late, and so we decided to get an order of ratatouille to split. It was everything you could ever expect ratatouille to be, flavorful and yet not mushy. I will admit that our choice of this particular side was somewhat influenced by our unbridled love of the recent movie by the same name. If you’re the kind of person who would waste ten minutes reading my miserable excuse for a review and not regret it, you’re the kind of person who would immensely enjoy that film.
Seeing as how we hadn’t eaten appetizers, we decided to split a fairly rich dessert. I pulled the trigger on a lemon pound cake with blueberry compote, a blackberry ice cream, and a tart, cold lemon curd. The combination of flavors was delicious, and I made a point of getting a taste of each component in every bite. Blueberry and lemon is most definitely a pairing that I will be experimenting with further on my own.
In closing, Hook was both a very enjoyable restaurant and a great example for other chefs to follow in regards to sustainability. I will return to Hook again before the year is out, possibly more than once. Some of the dish composition does reveal to the observant diner that the chef is fairly young (28) and perhaps inexperienced, however it always seems to be merely a matter of balance rather than there being any actual single poorly executed item on the plate. In general, I feel that Hook provides world-class fish at prices well below that of, say, Oceanaire or DC Catch, with a good sustainability message to boot. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a stand-out fish restaurant in our city.
www.hookdc.com